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Armchair Repair

o3 / AI Assistant

23/07/25, 12:32

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Armchair Repair


Overview

•⁠ ⁠DIY repair of a sagging, torn, or wobbly armchair. •⁠ ⁠Skill level 3/5. •⁠ ⁠Typical duration 2–4 hours hands-on.

Safety First

  1. Sharp staples, tacks and upholstery needles can puncture skin – wear cut-resistant gloves.

  2. Old springs can snap back suddenly – use eye protection.

  3. Solvent-based wood glue and leather dyes give off fumes – work in a well-ventilated area or wear an FFP2 mask.

  4. Heavy lifting when turning the chair over – lift with knees bent or get assistance.

  5. Power-tool use (drill/driver, staple gun) – unplug or remove batteries when changing bits or clearing jams.

Tools & Materials

Item

Purpose

Staple remover / flat screwdriver

Lift old upholstery staples

Long-nose pliers

Pull tacks, nails, broken springs

Rubber mallet

Tap joints together without marking wood

Wood glue (exterior-grade PVA)

Reglue loose frame joints

Bar or sash clamps

Hold frame square while glue cures

Upholstery webbing & tacks

Replace stretched seat support

Zig-zag springs / clips

Swap broken springs

Replacement foam / wadding

Restore cushion shape

Upholstery fabric or leather patch + matching thread

Mend tears

Heavy-duty stapler (manual or pneumatic)

Fix new fabric and dust cover

Utility knife & scissors

Trim fabric, webbing, foam

Touch-up wax stick / leather dye

Hide minor scuffs

Protective sheet or drop cloth

Keep floor clean

Step-by-Step

1. Assess and Strip

Remove cushions, tip the chair upside-down, and photograph spring layout and fabric folds. Carefully prise off the dust-cover underneath and label any loose screws or brackets. Why: Identifying all faults prevents repeat dismantling.

Pro-tip: Bag small hardware in zip-bags taped to the matching part.

2. Tighten or Reglue the Frame

Test each joint; if loose, separate gently, scrape away old glue, apply fresh wood glue, and clamp square for at least 30 minutes (check manufacturer’s cure time). Wipe excess glue with a damp cloth. Why: A solid frame stops future squeaks and sagging.

Pro-tip: Insert a toothpick coated in glue into an enlarged dowel hole before re-inserting the dowel to tighten the fit.

3. Renew Webbing or Springs

Remove worn webbing or broken zig-zag springs. Stretch new webbing front-to-back and side-to-side, tacking securely. For springs, hook new clips to the frame rails and install springs with equal tension.

Why: Seat support is the main cause of “sink-in” chairs.

Pro-tip: A webbing stretcher bar gives firmer tension than hand-pulling.

4. Replace or Re-pad Cushion Inserts

Measure old foam; cut new high-density foam with an electric carving knife or bread knife. Wrap in polyester wadding for softer edges and slide back into the cover.

Why: Fresh foam restores comfort and appearance.

Pro-tip: Lightly mist foam edges with furniture polish – they slide into covers more easily.

5. Repair or Patch Fabric/Leather

For fabric: cut a patch 2 cm larger than the tear, tuck edges under, and ladder-stitch by hand. For leather: use a leather repair kit or adhesive-backed patch; blend colour with matching dye.

Why: Stops rips enlarging and refreshes look.

Pro-tip: Warm leather gently with a hairdryer on low to help dye penetrate and dry evenly.

6. Re-upholster and Staple

Re-lay fabric, pulling evenly from centre to corners; staple every 4–5 cm, folding corners hospital-tight. Trim excess fabric, reinstall the dust-cover, and tap felt pads onto feet. Why: Secures repairs and gives a neat finish.

7. Final Touches

Re-fit cushions, buff wood with wax or furniture polish, and test recliner mechanisms (if fitted) for smooth motion. Apply leather conditioner or fabric protector as desired. Why: Ensures longevity and presentation.

Completion Checks

  • Chair sits level with no wobble.

  • Frame joints feel solid; no creaks when you sit or shift weight.

  • Seat support feels even, without sagging.

  • Fabric/leather smooth, tear invisible or neatly patched.

  • Staples/tacks flush and evenly spaced; dust-cover taut.

  • Recliner or swivel operates smoothly without grinding.

When to call a pro instead

If the chair has intricate upholstery (deep buttoning, channel-back), antique value, motorised reclining/tilt mechanisms, or you lack a stapler and clamps big enough for the frame, a professional upholsterer can preserve both aesthetics and structural integrity without risk of costly mistakes.


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