Artificial Grass Laying

Overview

•⁠ ⁠Remove natural lawn and install an artificial-grass surface over a compacted sub-base. •⁠ ⁠Skill level 3 / 5. •⁠ ⁠Typical duration 10–14 hours for 30 m² (spread over two dry days).

Safety First

1. Musculoskeletal strain from lifting turf and aggregate – wear a back-support belt and lift with bent knees.

2. Flying debris when cutting grass or trimming edges – use safety glasses.

3. Dust from granite dust or sand – wear an FFP2 mask.

4. Sharp tools (Stanley knife, edging stakes) – use cut-resistant gloves.

5. Vibration from plate compactor – take regular breaks and wear anti-vibration gloves.

   
   

Tools & Materials

Step-by-Step

1. Measure & Mark Out

Why: Accurate area figures prevent material shortages or excess waste.

2. Remove Existing Lawn

Cut and lift turf to 75–100 mm depth using a turf cutter or spade; barrow spoil to a skip or compost heap. Why: A clean excavation stops organic material rotting beneath the turf.

3. Install Edge Restraints

Fix treated timber or recycled-plastic boards flush with the planned surface height, checking right-angles with a builder’s square. Why: Solid edging prevents the sub-base and grass from spreading.

4. Lay Weed Membrane

Roll out geotextile across the excavated area, overlapping seams by at least 150 mm and stapling to edging. Why: Stops perennial weeds piercing the finished surface while allowing drainage.

5. Add & Compact Sub-Base

Spread 50–75 mm of MOT Type 1 or 6 mm granite chippings; compact with a plate compactor in opposing passes. Check levels fall 1:100 away from buildings. Why: A dense, free-draining foundation prevents rutting.

6. Apply Sand Blinding Layer

Screed 15–20 mm of sharp sand, mist lightly, then compact again. Fill low spots and re-compact until level. Why: Creates a smooth, adjustable surface for the grass backing.

7. Roll Out Grass & Relax

Unroll turf in the same fibre direction, avoiding seams in high-traffic sight lines. Leave for at least 2 hours in warm weather. Why: Allowing fibres to recover minimises wrinkles.

8. Trim & Position

Use a fresh Stanley blade to cut from the backing side, following edging contours. Replace blades every 2 m for clean cuts. Why: Tight edges give a neat, trip-free finish.

9. Seam Joins

Fold edges back, centre joining tape (shiny side down), apply adhesive, and press both sides onto it. Weight with sandbags for 30 minutes. Why: Proper bonding stops visible gaps or lifting.

10. Secure Perimeter

Hammer 150 mm galvanised nails or turf staples every 250 mm around edges, sinking heads below fibre line. Why: Anchors grass against wind uplift.

11. Infill & Brush Up

Broadcast 4–6 kg/m² kiln-dried sand evenly, then brush vigorously against the pile with a stiff broom or power brush. Why: Sand ballast stabilises backing and keeps fibres upright.

Completion Checks

• Surface feels firm underfoot, no spongy patches.

• Seams lie flat and are nearly invisible from normal standing height.

• Pile stands upright after brushing, with no sand visible.

• Edges are tight to edging boards and resist gentle lift.

• Rainwater drains freely without puddling.

  
  

When to call a pro instead

If the area exceeds 50 m², the soil is prone to waterlogging, or access limits the use of plate compactors and skips, an experienced installer with specialist equipment can deliver a flawless, properly-drained surface in less time and with a manufacturer-backed warranty.