Replace three individual tap washers
- Robert Costart
- May 29
- 3 min read
Updated: Jun 4
š Overview
Swapping worn rubber washers in three separate compression taps to stop drips and restore a firm shut-off.
Skill level: 2 / 5Ā (straightforward DIY with basic tools)
Typical duration: 30ā45 min per tap
ā ļø Safety First
Turn off the nearest service valves (or the main stop-cock) to avoid flooding.
Open each tap fully to depressurise and drain the pipes before dismantling.
Wear cut-resistant gloves; sharp brass and chrome edges can nick fingers.
Use eye protection when cleaning or grinding valve seatsāmetal swarf may flick up.
Plug the basin or bath waste so tiny screws and washers cannot disappear down the drain.
š§° Tools & Materials
Item | Purpose |
Adjustable spanner | Undo tap bonnet or gland nut |
Slot/Posidriv screwdriver | Remove handle and cover cap |
Long-nose pliers | Extract circlips or stubborn washers |
Seat-grinding tool (optional) | Smooth pitted valve seats for a lasting seal |
Replacement washers (Ā½Źŗ or Ā¾Źŗ) | New rubber seal for each tap |
Fibre washer for bonnet (if supplied) | Reseal tap body on re-assembly |
Silicone grease | Lubricate washer screw and O-rings |
White vinegar & nylon brush | Clean scale from parts and seat |
Towels & bucket | Catch residual water |
š Step-by-Step
1. Isolate and drain
Action: Close the service valve feeding each tap (or the stop-cock), then open the tap fully until it runs dry.
Why: Removes pressure and water so you can work cleanly.
Pro-tip: If no isolation valves exist, plan to fit full-bore lever valves after the repair for easier future maintenance.
2. Remove the handle and cover
Action: Pop off the coloured cap, undo the retaining screw and lift off the handle and decorative skirt.
Why: Exposes the gland or bonnet nut without scratching chrome.
Pro-tip: Photograph each layer as it comes offāreassembly is fool-proof.
3. Extract the spindle assembly
Action: Hold the tap body with one spanner while loosening the bonnet/gland nut with another; wind the spindle out completely.
Why: The washer sits on the underside of this assembly.
4. Replace the washer
Action: Pry off the old rubber washer and fit a new one of identical size, securing it with the small brass screw or circlip.
Why: A fresh, supple washer forms a watertight seal on the valve seat.
Pro-tip: Smear a dab of silicone grease on the screw threads to deter future corrosion.
5. Inspect and dress the seat
Action: Shine a torch down the tap body; if the brass seat looks pitted, use a seat-grinding tool to give it a smooth finish. Wipe away any debris.
Why: A scarred seat will cut a new washer and the drip will return.
6. Reassemble the tap
Action: Screw the spindle assembly back in, tightening the bonnet nut firmly but not ferociously. Refit skirt, handle and cap.
Why: Restores full structural integrity and original appearance.
7. Restore water and test
Action: Open the service valve slowly. Turn the tap off and check for leaks; then turn it on and off a few times to bed-in the washer.
Why: Confirms a drip-free seal before you move to the next tap.
Pro-tip: Leave dry tissue around the joint for ten minutesāany moisture shows instantly.
š Completion Checks
No drip from spout after five minutes with tap firmly shut.
Handle turns smoothly with clear stop at closed position.
Dry tissue at bonnet nut and spindle; no seepage under pressure.
š·āāļø When to call a pro instead
If the bonnet nut is seized solid, the valve seat is cracked or deeply pitted, or the tap is an integrated ceramic-disc mixer (which uses cartridges, not washers), a plumber with penetrating oil, heat pads and the correct replacement parts can finish the job without damaging your porcelain or pipework.