Wall Modification and Painting

Overview

• Structural alteration of a non‑load‑bearing stud or plasterboard wall followed by full repaint. • Skill level: 4 / 5 • Typical duration: 8 – 16 hours hands‑on (spread over two–three days for drying time)

Safety First

1. Confirm the wall is non‑load‑bearing (check joist direction, consult drawings).

2. Isolate electrics & plumbing at the consumer unit and stop‑cock before cutting.

3. Wear PPE: FFP2 dust mask, safety goggles, cut‑resistant gloves, ear protection.

4. Control silica & plaster dust with extraction or a cordless vacuum.

5. Use correct ladder/steps—never over‑reach while cutting or painting.
   

Tools & Materials

Step‑by‑Step

Step 1 – Plan & Mark‑Up

Why: Clear measurements prevent re‑work and wasted materials.

Step 2 – Cut & Remove Wall Sections

Why: Precise cuts make re‑boarding quicker and stronger.

Cut along stud lines with a multi‑tool; remove plasterboard, then saw out studs required for openings.

Step 3 – Install New Framing

Why: Properly braced openings avoid cracks later.

Fix new timber studs or noggins, ensuring plumb and square alignment.

Step 4 – First‑Fix Services & Insulation

Why: Running cables or pipes now avoids chasing finished walls.

Add acoustic or thermal insulation between studs if desired.

Step 5 – Re‑Board & Tape Joints

Why: Flush joints create an invisible repair line.

Screw plasterboard with 150 mm centres, apply mesh tape and two coats of joint compound.

Step 6 – Sand & Prime

Why: Primer reveals imperfections and seals porous new plaster.

Lightly sand to level, vacuum dust, then apply acrylic primer.

Step 7 – Paint Finish Coats

Why: Two thin coats give depth of colour and durability.

Cut‑in edges with a brush, then roll the field with a medium‑nap roller; allow full drying between coats.

Completion Checks

• Surface is flush with no visible joint lines or pin‑holes.

• Even colour and sheen across old and new areas after two coats.

• No hairline cracks after 24 hours of drying.

• Sockets, switches and skirting boards re‑fitted and level.
  

When to Call a Pro Instead

If the wall may be load‑bearing, contains structural steel, significant electrical/plumbing reroutes, or if you need a perfectly invisible high‑level decorative finish, hire a qualified builder and plasterer—structural mistakes and poor plaster work cost far more to rectify than a professional’s fee.

Sources